🏍️ Himalayan Motorcycle Journey – Day 3
Crossing Atal Tunnel & Heading to Keylong
📍 Route: Sissu → Tandi → Keylong
🗓️ Date: 7 june 2025
❄️ A Morning Wrapped in Mist – Sissu to Tandi
The day began with the icy whispers of Sissu, a village cradled in the Lahaul Valley. Waking up in our tent beside the Bhaga River, we were greeted by fogged-up visors and frosted bikes. The cold bit harder than Day 2 — a silent reminder that the deeper we rode into the Himalayas, the wilder it would get.
We packed up, kicked off the frost from our seats, and resumed the ride.
🛣️ Re-Crossing the Atal Tunnel – Backtracking to Refuel
Yes, we rode back through the Atal Tunnel — a rare but necessary detour. Keylong’s only petrol pump wasn’t yet operational, so we had to fuel up at Tandi, where the last petrol pump before Leh stands.
💡 Quick Tip for Riders: Always top up at Tandi. It's your lifeline for the next 350+ km.
The tunnel ride in reverse felt surreal. It was no longer an entryway — it was a reminder of how far we’d already come.
🌨️ Unexpected Weather – Sudden Rain & Snow Pellets
As we exited the tunnel the second time, the terrain looked different — darker skies and sudden flurries of snow. Within minutes, snow turned to rain, the road shimmered with black ice, and we had to reduce speed.
🧤 Cold fingers
🛞 Slippery bends
🏞️ Terrifying beauty
The mountain changed its mood in seconds — but that’s what makes motorcycle touring in the Himalayas unlike any other road trip.
🍲 Local Food, Warmer Hearts – Lunch at a Roadside Dhaba
Soaked and chilled, we pulled over at a wooden-roofed dhaba near Keylong. The smell of rajma-chawal, hot rotis, and ghee-drenched parathas was a slice of heaven.
We met Dorje Bhai, the 62-year-old dhaba owner, who proudly served food to “India ke riders.” His stories of 20 years watching bikers, pilgrims, and army convoys kept us hooked.
“Yahan mausam aur insaan dono unpredictable hain,” he said with a laugh.
📍 Reaching Keylong – Capital of Lahaul
By late afternoon, we reached Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahaul. Though small, the town bustled with life:
- Colorful local markets
- Buddhist prayer flags fluttering on rooftops
- Monks walking beside backpackers and bikers
We stayed at a basic guesthouse with a view of the mountains—no Wi-Fi, no signal, just the sound of wind and wheel memories.
🧳 Lessons of Day 3
- Always carry rainproof gloves & waterproof covers.
- Speak to locals — they know the terrain better than Google Maps.
- Take every dhaba stop seriously — it might be your only source of warmth and calories for hours.
📸 Recommended Photo Ideas
- Bikes at Tandi Petrol Pump
- Snowfall near tunnel exit
- Portrait with Dorje Bhai at the dhaba
- Keylong market or monastery
- Sunset from Keylong guesthouse
🔚 Next Up: The Glacier Road to Shinkula Pass
We rested in Keylong, but not for long. Tomorrow was going to be the most challenging ride of the trip — the ascent to Shinkula Pass, crossing snow, slush, and landslides into the untouched Zanskar Valley.
Stay tuned for:
➡️ Day 4 – Conquering the Glacier Roads: Shinkula to Purne
Day 2 - Manali to jispa
💬 Let’s Talk in the Comments
Have you experienced unexpected Himalayan weather?
Ever tasted real rajma-chawal at 10,000 ft?
Drop your story or questions below — I’d love to hear from fellow wanderers.